Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Wine Sauce for Lamb Chops by bookseller

I did some interesting old-school cooking. I wanted -- don't ask why -- to make a wine sauce to go with lamb chops, and I did it, as I say, really old school. Which is to say that I browned three pounds -- THREE POUNDS -- of lamb neck (admittedly, too bony and gristley to make good eating), working really slowly to brown every side, took about, jeez, an hour maybe. Removed the meat, and in the fat that had rendered I browned -- deeply browned -- some chopped onion and garlic and carrots, with a little fresh thyme and a bay leaf. Added the lamb back into the pot, and poured in an entire bottle of red wine plus about a quart of chicken broth, and let it all cook down for...three hours maybe. Strained it and degreased it (and was delighted to learn that those gravy separator thingies really do work), and then reduced it down to about a cup. Added about 1/4 teaspoon of kosher salt -- the only salt I had added so far, which really made it come together, and then thickened it with a beurre manie, which is a variation on a roux; it's a small amount of softened butter smushed together with a small amount of flour, and then dropped into simmering liquid in tiny clumps.

Anyway, the sauce thickened beautifully, all glossy and with a lovely body, and the salt pulled all the flavors together. And after all of this, I got a scant cup of this gorgeous sauce. It's intensely flavorful; I can't see wanting to use more than, say, 2 tablespoons per serving. But all that meat, and all that wine, and all that time, for ONE CUP of glaze....wow. It's a very 19th-century kind of cooking, and deeply French, rather than American; we just don't do those kinds of reductions. And I had never made one before, but I gotta say, the result is a knockout.

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