Baked Sea Bass or Other Whole Fish Stuffed with Shellfish by Grizzled Adams

In this preparation, a whole bass is stuffed with shellfish, onions, olive oil, and lemon juice; it is then tightly sealed in foil or parchment paper and baked in the oven, where it braises in its own juices and those released by the stuffing. It merges from the cooking with its flesh extraordinarily moist and saturated with a medley of sea fragrances. The most agreeable way to serve the fish is whole, with the head and tail on, but completely boned.

For 6 or more serving

1 dozen clams
1 dozen mussels
6 medium raw shrimp
2 garlic cloves
1 small onion
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1/2 cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs
A 4-to-5 pound whole sea bass, red snapper, or small salmon, or similar fish, boned as described above
Heavy-weight cooking parchment or foil

1. Wash and scrub the clams and mussels. Discard those that stay open when handled. Put them in a pan broad enough so that they don't need to be piled up more than 3 deep, cover the pan, and turn on the heat to high. Check the mussels and clams frequently, turning them over, and promptly removing them from the pan as they open their shells.

2. When all the clams and mussels have opened up, detach their meat from the shells. Put the shellfish meat in a bowl and cover it with its own juices from the pan. To be sure, as you are doing this, that any sand is left behind, tip the pan and gently spoon off the liquid from the top.

3. Let the clam and mussel meat rest for 20 or 30 minutes, so that it may shed any sand still clinging to it, then retrieve it gently with a slotted spoon, and put it in a bowl large enough to contain later all the other ingredients except for the fish. Line a strainer with paper towels, and filter the shellfish juices through the paper into the bowl.

Ahead-of-time note: The steps above may be completed 2 or 3 hours in advance.

4. Shell the strimp and remove their dark vein. Wash in cold water and pat thoroughly dry with cloth kitchen towels. If using very large shrimp, slice them in half, lengthwise. Add them to the bowl.

5. Mash the garlic lightly with a heavy knife handle, just hard enough to split its skin and peel it. Add it to the bowl.

6. Slice the onion as fine as possible. Add it to the bowl.

7. Put all the other ingredients listed, except for the fish, into the bowl. Toss thoroughly to coat all the shellfish well.

8. Preheat oven to 475°.

9. Wash the fish in cold water inside and out, then pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.

10. Lay a double thickness of aluminum foil or cooking parchment on the bottom of a long, shallow baking dish, bearing in mind that there must be enough to close over the whole fish. Pour some of the liquid in the mixing bowl over the foil or parchment, tipping the baking dish to spread it evenly. Place the fish in the center and stuff it with all the contents of the bowl, reserving just some of the liquid. If you have opted for having the fish split into two fillets, sandwich the contents of the bowl between them. Use the liquid you just reserved to moisten the skin side of the fish. Fold the foil or parchment over the fish, crimping the edges to seal tightly throughout, and tucking the ends under the fish.

11. Bake in the upper third of the preheated oven, let the fish rest for 10 minutes in the sealed foil or parchment. If the baking dish is not presentable for the table, transfer the still-sealed fish to a platter. With scissors, cut the foil or parchment open, trimming it down to the edge of the dish. Don't attempt to lift the fish out of the wrapping, because it is boneless and will break up. Serve it directly from the foil or parchment, slicing the fish across as you might a roast, pouring over each portion some of the juices.